Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Day 23: Tiananmen Square and Forbidden City


Our first two stops today were Tiananmen square and the Forbidden City. Which, turns out, are right across the street from one another. Literally. When we walked into Tiananmen Square we went past the gate of the old Beijing city wall. On the right was the national museum and on the left was the national congress. I had actually seen on the news that they had held their national congress while we were there and if we had been in Beijing just two weeks prior we wouldn’t have been allowed on the square. In front of us was Chairman Mao’s mausoleum and in back of us, across the street, was the gate that led to the Forbidden City. Chairman Mao’s mausoleum was closed while we were there, but it contains his casket and body. It’s an urban legend whether the body in the casket really is Mao’s or not but during the peak tourist season people will stand in line for up to two hours just to catch a couple seconds glimpse of his tomb.

Chairman Mao's Mausoleum at Tiananmen Square, Beijing

There were guards posted all around the square. They stood tall and straight and didn’t move a muscle. I heard you actually have to be a certain height to get into the national guard there. No short people allowed. Other than the buildings surrounding it, it really was just a big square. It’s famous for being the place Mao delivered his speeches. Across the street on the gate to the Forbidden City hangs a giant painting of Mao, which is replaced by a new one every year.

Gate leading to the Forbidden City

There’s a tunnel under the street connecting the square to the city so we didn’t have to try and cross the traffic. When we first walked through the gate, there was a court yard with rows of rooms on both sides. I thought, this is a little small, I imagined the infamous Forbidden City to be a little bigger. There was another gate in front of us. This was just the reception hall where officials would wait for the emperor. Oh that makes more sense. There were three giant doors in the gate to the next courtyard. The middle one was exclusively for the Emperor. The door on the right was reserved for the royal family and the one on the left was for high ranking officials. Everyone else had to use the little doors on either side. Now in modern days the middle door is for people with disabilities to get through without having to fight the crowd. Our Les was in a wheelchair that day, as he would sometimes use when we were walking a lot so he got to go through the middle door and be Emperor Les for the rest of the day.

The courtyard we walked into was much larger than the first waiting reception one. There was a giant building where all the official business was conducted. Then beyond that courtyard there was another gate that led to an even bigger courtyard that even had a stream running through the middle with bridges and giant stairs. This was where all the official ceremonies took place including religious ceremonies, royal weddings and crowning of the emperor. Okay now I understood why this place was so impressive. After that courtyard it branched off in different directions to smaller buildings and courtyards. I don’t think we explored even half of it to be honest, turned out the forbidden city was actually a huge city at one time. It is reported there are 8,704 rooms in the entire place and housed as many as 10,000 people. Including up to 3,000 concubines.

Courtyard in the Forbidden City

One of the interesting features of the city is that all around everywhere you will see these giant metal pots. They were huge, about five feet high and at least five feet wide in the middle. It was fun to speculate what they were for until we learned they actually held water in case a fire broke out back in the day. There are about 200 of them all around the city. We walked through the main courtyard that once was home to the concubines. We got to look inside the small rooms where they slept and once you became a concubine you never left the forbidden city again. If you had a son you got upgraded to a bigger room and higher status. We wandered around for almost two hours and we only saw a fraction of the city.

We were settling back in on the bus to go to lunch when suddenly Kerry let out a yelp. She had bought a small souvenir from one of the street vendors and the 20 dollar note she had gotten back was a completely different currency! They had warned us about that back in Shanghai that vendors will do that sometimes since other currency that looks similar is worth only a fraction of their own. Honestly we were all too impressed that it had actually happened to be upset and we had a great time trying to figure out what nation it was from.

After lunch we visited the Temple of Heaven. The park was full of old people playing cards which looked like a lot of fun. At first glance I couldn’t quite figure out why the temple of heaven was so special. It wasn’t particularly bigger or taller than anything we’d seen before. Until our guide started explaining the temple was used exclusively by the emperor to pray to the gods every year for a good harvest. Its roof was round instead of square (like every other one we’d seen) and it was painted bright blue to symbolize heaven.  On the stairs leading up the temple were gorgeous carvings of phoenix and dragons. It was a small temple but it was beautiful.

Temple of Heaven, Beijing

On the way back to the hotel we stopped at the site of the 2008 Beijing Olympic games. We walked along the road and tried to imagine thousands of people going to watch the greatest athletes in the world compete. The dorms for the athletes was in the shape of the dragon, complete with its pearl! And we saw the arena infamous for its architecture. It was just a quick stop but very cool to see. 

Dragon dorm rooms at the Beijing Olympic site

No comments:

Post a Comment